It is what’s inside that counts when it comes to Navajo Hogan.
The windowless, tan cinder block building located at 447 E. 3300 S. in South Salt Lake holds a world of art, tradition, history, community and delicious food — especially warm, crispy frybread.
Owner Marcie Espinoza loves that her restaurant is part of the community. “It gives you a reason to get up in the morning, do something for others,” she said.
Espinoza is good at what she does, and what she does is cook food with roots in the Diné culture: simmered pinto beans, chili verde, mutton stews on Saturdays and, most of all, frybread — served either savory as a taco, with beans or chili and topped with lettuce, tomato, cheese and sour cream; or sweet, slathered in butter and honey.
“I like the heart and authenticity. They take a little out of their culture and serve it to us on a plate,” said customer Noah Slack, who will be a premed student at Salt Lake Community College next year.
Navajo Hogan’s frybread has received national attention. In an article for Saveur Magazine, titled “Journey to the Frybread Belt, Where Fried Dough Meets Taco Filling,” illustrator Hawk Krall wrote: “if you have your pick of places, start with Navajo Hogan in Salt Lake City, which makes some of the nation’s best.”
Espinoza and her husband, Bill, purchased the small cinder block building over 30 years ago. “[At the time] we wanted to serve hot dogs and snacks to the students from Granite High,” she said.
When the Espinozas first opened their restaurant, Granite High School was less than a block away. While their hot dog business never took off, one night while Bill was making frybread, he had the idea to try Navajo food instead.
Although Bill’s heritage was Hispanic and Navajo, he identified more as a Native American and held a love for the frybread of his childhood. This food culture switch worked, and in 1989, Navajo Hogan was born.
The restaurant soon received national reviews and visits from tourists, even of the famous variety, such as Jay Leno and Steve Martin, who left autographed photos which adorn the restaurant’s wall.
“The cast from ‘Touched by an Angel’ would come by all the time,” Marcie said.
The restaurant also receives ample word-of-mouth publicity from local diners.
“I’ve never been here before, I never knew about Navajo tacos before,” said customer Aiden Bailey, who came with a friend, Andrew Latta.
“We were talking about what a scone is. I thought scones were British,” Bailey said while describing a prior conversation where Latta then told her, “The place you have to try is Navajo Hogan.”
People enjoy how the restaurant offers an unusual, regional and distinct four corners experience. The Roadfood team has called Navajo Hogan “one of the few restaurants in the country that specializes in Native American food.”
Bill was the soul of the restaurant, always behind the counter, until his passing in 2019. Even after she returned to her hometown of Albuquerque, where she still has family, Marcie has kept the community spirit and the Diné culture at Navajo Hogan’s core.
“No one works for me,” Marcie said. “We work together.”
Navajo Hogan’s hours run 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesdays through Fridays and 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturdays.
Absolutely thrilled every time this place gets a little love.
Well written and wonderful article! I hope to see more reviews of more authentic “hole in the wall” spots!
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